List of products used:
Today there is a guide on how to create a cool key board with Posh Chalk, WoodUbend and Dixiebelle products.
Let’s get started. As always, the base of my project, in this case a plywood board, is thoroughly cleaned with Dixie Belle White Lightning to prepare it perfectly for the colors and materials.
So that the colors of the decoupage paper shine vibrant, I first paint a white background. Decoupage papers are usually opaque and the background affects the intensity of the colors. For this I use the color cotton, a pure white, by Dixie Belle from the chalk mineral paint series. The brush I work with here is by Posh Chalk, the small blending brush with gentle synthetic bristles.
After the paint has dried, it is time to apply the decoupage. For this project by Posh Chalk I use the Deluxe Decoupage Paper “Chat Noir” in size A3. The Posh Chalk Decoupage papers are “rice papers”, have a fibrous structure, are very robust and are really easy to process. So even a layman, does not need to be afraid.
I like to tear the edges that are still to be faded into the project with color. This creates a frayed edge that is easier to incorporate later than a sharp edge. To do this, moisten the paper in the areas to be torn with a little water with the help of a brush or sponge.
As “glue” I use the infusor from Posh Chalk. A liquid medium which is not only ideal for mixing the Posh Chalk Pigments – metallic powder pigments, but also for attaching decoupage and also for sealing your projects. The consistency is slightly gelly and it appears milky when wet, but dries transparently at the end. The brush with which I apply the infusor is again from Posh Chalk the small blending brush. Depending on how porous and absorbent the substrate is, you may need a little more of your chosen decoupage medium. In my case, the plywood is very dry and also the chalk mineral paint absorbs some of the infusor, so I reload. As you can see, the decoupage forgives a lot and allows me to slip and reposition it even in the already moistened state without tearing.
Now I let the whole thing dry before I continue working on the board.
In the meantime, I am preparing the framework for the project. For this I use the trims no. 46 and 719 from WoodUbend. In this case, I paint the strips beforehand with the Dixie Belle chalk mineral paint in caviar, a deep shade of black, because I do not want to paint over the decoupage paper. I warm up the last several times to keep it supple and so that it does not break me, which could also happen with a filigree part. But anything that breaks can also be put back together if necessary. In this respect, no stress …
With the caviar I also painted the part of the board below the decoupage paper 2x and then sealed the whole thing again with the Posh Chalk Infusor.
After everything has dried, I cut the bar approximately to the length. The WoodUbends are attached with a wood glue of good quality. I prefer to use the Quick & Thick from Titebond. I cover the back of the heated trim with the glue and place the strip in the desired position. In particular, I press the edges thoroughly so that everything is flush in the end. In my method of obtaining a frame with 45° angles, I place the bar overlapping on top of the previous one. Warm this corner again well so that the strips become soft and easier to cut. Then I put my knife at the desired angle and cut through both trims. Remove leftovers and voila, fits together perfectly. I continued this for all 4 corners. When the WoodUbends have cooled, they remain in the shape or position into which they were placed.
In the next step, I pimp up the lower black part a little. It would have been easier before I put the lasts on because I could have placed the stencil flush, but sometimes I like to make life difficult for 😹 myself
The template is the Lace Border of Posh Chalk. I cut off the desired part here. For stencilling I use the stencil brush by Da Vinci. For this I mix the Posh Chalk Pigments in Pale Gold with a little of the Posh Chalk Infusor.
As a little tip, when stenciling, keep a bucket or similar with water ready where your stencil fits in, so you can put it in immediately before your paint dries on the stencil. You know, some color lasts just where it is 🙈 not needed
For the corresponding bling on the trims I also take the Posh Chalk Pigments in Pale Gold. Depending on which effect you want to achieve, you can control the intensity and consistency yourself. I love this metallic high-gloss effect. I apply them with an artist brush by Da Vinci. I absorb very little of the mixed pigment on the brush. I hold the brush at a shallow angle to the project and first gently stroke against the details to emphasize them. Depending on the desired intensity, this can of course be repeated. These no longer have to be sealed, because the infusor itself is suitable as a sealant.
Last but not least, I screw the hooks to the desired position and glue the small shelf with my Titebond Quick & Thick to the desired place. From the back, I secured it again with my nail gun. It certainly wasn’t necessary, because no great weights are placed on it, but I always like to play it safe.
Finally, I let the edges age a little with the Posh Chalk Patina in black. Only discreetly, to give the whole thing a little dimension.
I hope you enjoyed the project as much as I did and you felt like imitating it. All products can also be found in my webshop and in my shop.
For today I say goodbye and happy brushing
Your
Angela
